tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36480542465224278092024-02-20T03:25:49.111-06:00Claire McAdams PhotographyClaire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.comBlogger126125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-39674088357895620892016-08-31T04:45:00.001-05:002016-08-31T08:59:53.276-05:00Kira's Senior PortraitsKira came to my studio for headshots years ago, so it was especially fun to have her back for senior portraits this year! We discovered this incredible forest location near my studio thanks to a little extra driving around. Can you believe a location this lush is available in downtown Houston?
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-48006619644018566882015-01-10T18:35:00.004-06:002015-01-10T18:35:52.225-06:00Athens, Greece<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Sunkissed and exhausted, I finished off my two weeks in Greece with a couple of days in Athens. Shopping and roaming the streets was a perfect way to say goodbye! I'm not a huge fan of packed tourist locations, so I leaned towards more private hikes to with panoramic views. </div>
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-12880503658022419302014-12-12T12:53:00.001-06:002014-12-12T12:54:10.909-06:00Milos, Greece<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The final island of my trip was Milos, a precious island featuring a striking landscapes and impressive beaches. My most thrilling moments on the island were spent underwater, so I'm eagerly prepping blogs featuring all of the underwater work I've done this year (both in Greece and the US.) Stay tuned for those posts, but enjoy the quirky quality of Milos island!<br />
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Just a little peak at the incredible underwater scenes I took advantage of off the coast of Milos:</div>
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Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-69985524029732868392014-11-18T13:43:00.000-06:002014-11-19T18:14:31.123-06:00Santorini, Greece<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I couldn't imagine touring the islands of Greece without spending a little time in Santorini. Coming from Naxos the number of tourists was definitely overwhelming, but the scenery made my jaw drop. A a massive volcanic eruption 3600 years ago created the dramatic, 1000ft high cliffs where the main cities are perched. The resulting landscape is distinctively dramatic and beautiful.<br />
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My first day on the island was spent getting my bearings in the city of Oia, the oldest settlement on the island. The streets were packed with people shopping, snapping photos and claiming great spots to watch the sunset.<br />
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<span style="text-align: left;">Sunset in Oia is legendary, so tourists start crowding every inch 'sunset view' space hours before the sun actually goes down. Instead of fighting the crowds, I escaped to the adorable Panorama Apartments. It's a bit of the walk from the city, but the view from upstairs is unmatched. The apartments are owned by an old husband and wife who don't speak english, but provide excellent accommodation at a much better price than the resort style hotels in Oia. </span><br />
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The hike from Oia to Fira was a great way to explore the landscape and experience a variety of views of the caldera (the collapsed center of the volcanic eruption currently filled with water). The sun was merciless, so a hat was crucial for the hike. </div>
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-83986585564843003692014-09-22T22:43:00.004-05:002014-09-22T22:43:51.072-05:00Naxos, Greece- Part 2There's nothing like a day of getting lost in the nooks and crannies of tiny old towns and exploring places I could never google. The island of Naxos offers all kinds of big beautiful towns for tourists to enjoy, but one of my favorite experiences on the island was hiking from the tiny village of Halki to Filoti. The trail was barely marked so it took a couple of wrong turns and some casual encounters with hungry goats before I arrived at my destination. I unexpectedly ran into a couple of locals who invited me into their home for Greek coffee, water and travel advice which left me feeling delighted and refreshed.<br />
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To see more of Naxos, see <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2014/09/naxos-greece-part-1.html" target="_blank">Part 1</a> of the blog.<br />
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I'm not one to fawn over purchasing quirky souvenirs, but <a href="http://thisisnaxos.gr/eng/page.aspx?itemID=SPG309" target="_blank">Penelope's</a> precious shop in Halki featuring her breathtaking work. She hand weaves every cloth item in her store ranging from bags and totes to stunning runners and tablecloths. Her enthusiasm for her art was clear as she showed me how to work her loom and told stories of her grandparents and great grandparents using the same designs and patterns that she uses today. <br />
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-88766381563414478592014-09-20T13:39:00.000-05:002014-09-22T22:49:00.517-05:00Naxos, Greece- Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: right;">
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After visiting <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2014/09/mykonos-greece.html" target="_blank">Mykonos</a> and <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2014/09/delos-greece.html" target="_blank">Delos</a> I took a boat to the island of Naxos to enjoy a more rural area of the Cyclades. Not nearly as many tourists make it to this huge island, so it provided a much more relaxed atmosphere and felt less manicured for the sake of cruise ship passengers.<br />
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Naxos boasts beautiful beaches and quaint towns as well as some gorgeous hiking opportunities. It's easy to navigate the island by bus, but make sure to ask locals about where and when to buy your ticket and catch the bus. The bus route I used sold tickets at the checkout counter of a tiny supermarket. It was an unexpected place to think of purchasing bus tickets, but it worked just fine.<br />
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With three full days to explore the island I ended up with way too many photos for one blog on Naxos! Part 1 explores the main port of Naxos and Hora, the port town where my hotel was located.<br />
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The entrance to Apollo's Temple is a popular spot for tourists. It provides an excellent view of the city and is also a pretty unique set of ruins. </div>
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My favorite hiking experience in Naxos was climbing to the top of Mt. Zas (Zeus.) Greek Mythology tells the story of Zeus being raised in a cave on this mountain, the highest point in the Cyclades. I wish I had brought a proper flashlight to explore the enormous cave in more detail, but the light from a phone had to suffice that day. I'd never been in an underground space that large and dark before, I felt like I was in a scene from Lord of the Rings. </div>
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There were two routes up the mountain, one being much hard than the other. Taking the easy route up the mountain and the hard route down was absolutely the best solution for me. Both routes provided stunning views and I had plenty of energy for the entire climb. Fresh water from the spring at the bottom of the mountain ended the day on a refreshing note.</div>
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The final view pictured above is of the village of Filoti, one of the adorable little towns I explore in <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2014/09/naxos-greece-part-2.html" target="_blank">Part 2</a>!Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-62244914511331203002014-09-14T17:01:00.000-05:002014-09-14T17:01:29.169-05:00Delos, Greece<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Growing up I spent years reading and studying greek mythology and am finally putting my childhood nerdiness to good use. In Greece I'm surrounded by these thrilling stories and the remains of the ancient civilization who created them. The island of Delos is told to be the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis (children of Zeus and Leto.) Pregnant Leto was driven from all other lands by Hera, Zeus's jealous wife. Leto found relief on this desolate little island which eventually became a thriving port housing a jaw dropping 25,000 people.<br />
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Today the island is the site of archeological excavations boasting the most important mythological, historical and archaeological significance in Greece. The island is easily accessible by boat from <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.gr/2014/09/mykonos-greece.html">Mykonos Island, </a> just make sure not to let yourself get trampled by the hoard of tourists rushing to get in line to buy tickets. Bring a hat, a shade umbrella, a misting fan, water, a bag of ice…I'm not kidding. As beautiful and fascinating as the ruins are, the blazing sun is merciless on the island and it will make you sweat like crazy!<br />
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The highest point on the island provides a panoramic view of Mykonos island and is also the home of many cairns, (piles of stones left by travelers.) These rock piles are often associated with Hermes, the god of travelers and thieves.</div>
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Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-53551037554164347462014-09-10T13:19:00.002-05:002014-09-10T13:29:15.949-05:00Mykonos, Greece<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I came to Greece for a bit of an escape. Even though this is the shortest and simplest international trip I've done so far, I've never felt so unprepared. Thankfully I'm not alone in my travels. Justin from <a href="http://justinblackphotos.com/world.html">Justin Black Photography</a> took care of all the planning and we've been doing a great job keeping each other alive and happy. He forgot spare batteries but brought a charger, I forgot a battery charger but remembered extra batteries...so it works out well!<br />
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The flight to Greece took us through Toronto and Athens before finally landing on the island of Mykonos 24 hours later. To the right is a map of the Cyclades Islands which are a gorgeous and popular vacation spot in Greece.<br />
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When I arrived in Mykonos I was so exhausted that I forgot my laptop and tablet on the little plane. The official at the airport counter leaned back in his chair, put his hands behind his head and said in a heavy accent, "Oohhh, no computer huh? Well that's a problem for you isn't it?" Then came an explosion of hearty laughter as he pretended that my laptop was gone forever. Thankfully they rescued it and I was able to escape to the hotel for a nap.<br />
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The city was crowded with sunkissed young people and an overall lack of urgency hung in the air. The city had the vibe of a carefully manicured resort which was heavenly at sunrise but hell when giant cruise ships dumped thousands obnoxious tourists onto the beach and crowded maze of tiny streets. I spent hours getting lost in the city, walking up the mountains away from tourists and closer to local homes accented with chickens and bleating goats. The water shined bright blue and turquoise, an indication of the crystal clear wonderland underneath it's surface. I will save all of the Greece underwater photography for one big, watery blog, so keep a lookout for that soon! Until then, I hope you enjoy exploring the Mykonos sunrise, sunset and everything in between.<br />
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<br />
I don't normally review the hotels I stay in, but the Hotel Tagoo is too irresistable to not mention. The price was one of the lowest in Mykonos but they stil provided a beautiful breakfast and just look at it! The trick is it requires a 10-15 minute walk to get into town. The hill is steep but the workout was totally worth it.<br />
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-4556459232178899272014-08-07T13:45:00.001-05:002014-09-10T13:02:18.481-05:00Wedding: Liang & DanielOne of my favorite things about photographing weddings is having the opportunity to reunite with old friends and capture the love they have found on camera. Liang and I went to high school together and I still have boxes full of old notes we used to write to each other in class! Her beautiful wedding was full of joy and love and I'm so excited to share these images.<br />
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Location: Rice University<br />
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-1369886341134251502013-12-24T14:59:00.003-06:002014-01-09T12:32:58.236-06:00Underwater DancersUnderneath the surface of the water awaits a world where dancers escape the laws of gravity and explore movement that is impossible anywhere else. Without a grounding force, dancers look to one another for support as they glide. They cling to each other, characterizing the depth and power of human connection. Christian and Sandy have danced together for years and their trust in one another provides a soulful presence that translates beautifully on camera. I am so grateful for their patience and dedication throughout the creation of these series. If you love the result, please share! At the end of the blog is a behind the scenes look at the creation of these images.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Encounter</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Monotone</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Coral</span></b></div>
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<b>Behind the Scenes:</b></div>
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Gear: Ewa Marine Housing, Alien Bees B800 and B1600 lights, Custom Designed Trigger Coupling Cable, Canon 5D Mark II, 17-40mm 4.0L lens, CyberSync triggers<br />
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Related Post:<br />
<a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2012/09/underwater-behind-scenes.html">Underwater Behind the Scenes 2012</a>Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-55827419621830058742013-09-29T21:51:00.003-05:002013-09-29T22:08:13.085-05:00Tia Arminda turns 100!This is my Tia Arminda, my mother's father's sister, and today is her 100th birthday! When asked how she felt about being 100 she responded "no no, that's too old!" When asked how old she really is she replied "50!"<br />
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When I visited her during my trip to Brazil in 2011, I doubted she really remembered who I was. We chatted and I showed her photos from my travels and after a bit, she stood up and disappeared into her room. She returned with a handful of old photos of us together. I was totally floored that she not only knew exactly who I was, she had also saved so many photos from past visits.<br />
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Another gem she dug up was her marriage license from 1937!<br />
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During this visit she joked with me saying "I'm the shortest person in our family, so you are the tallest!"</div>
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I didn't get to go to her birthday party, but both my parent's did. She looks as fabulous as her cake!<br />
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Feliz Aniversario Tia Arminda, votos de muita saude.<br />
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Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-30628798712389242013-07-31T19:04:00.002-05:002013-07-31T21:34:55.365-05:00Caitlin and Josh MARRIED! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2013/06/dancers-bridal-portraits.html">Caitlin's Bridal Portraits</a><br />
<a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2013/03/josh-and-caitlin.html">Caitlin and Josh's Engagement Portraits</a>Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-21567376241185560732013-06-23T18:06:00.001-05:002013-06-23T18:09:13.165-05:00Christina and JoeI loved watching how these two light up when they are together. Christina and Joe have so much love for each other and it really showed during their engagement shoot. I'm so excited to photograph their wedding next month!<br />
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-78882305977123659942013-06-13T16:46:00.001-05:002013-06-17T19:09:56.062-05:00Dancer's Bridal PortraitsI hope you enjoy Caitlin's bridal portraits taken primarily in Galveston Tx and The Grand 1894 Opera House. It was a perfect day, almost as magical as her wedding day which will be up on the blog soon.<br />
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-57214703527738802122013-06-05T00:19:00.001-05:002013-06-05T00:30:49.571-05:00Kylie & DavidThe post has been many months in the making. Kylie and David's engagement session was so laid back, beautiful and delicious! Their wedding was full of love and joy and I'm so happy to have been a part of their big day. I hope you enjoy their epic engagement, bridal portrait and wedding day blog. Thanks to <a href="http://justinblackphotos.com">Justin Black</a> for second shooting! <br />
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<b>Engagement</b><br />
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<b>Wedding Day</b><br />
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Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-15369326286183752442013-04-02T11:56:00.000-05:002013-04-02T14:00:49.764-05:00Ice Caves<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Makeup by Wendy <a href="http://makeupbywendy.com/" target="_blank">http://makeupbywendy.com</a>Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-69447858183602864172013-03-23T08:52:00.003-05:002013-03-23T08:53:40.842-05:00Josh and Caitlin!I LOVE this gorgeous couple. I've had the pleasure of working with Caitlin on several awesome portrait projects, and her engagement session with Josh was no exception. We danced the night away at their engagement shoot in downtown Houston, making sure to pass by the stage door of the theater where they met and fell in love. I'm looking forward to documenting their big day.<br />
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-15255775366777741512013-03-14T14:49:00.001-05:002013-03-14T14:49:16.223-05:00Flashback: Erin and Dylan<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Last year I had the thrill of photographing Erin and Dylan's beautiful wedding in the Robb Chapel in The Woodlands United Methodist Church and joyful reception at The Woodlands Resort and Conference Center. Here are the highlights from their special day. </div>
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-22183715590225871142013-02-19T16:23:00.002-06:002013-02-19T16:30:19.056-06:00Flashback: Katie and Brent<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I had a great time at this San Antonio wedding working with Katie and Brent. I felt really blessed to be a part of their special day and reunite with this awesome family. A big thanks to <a href="http://shelleyelenaphotoblog.com/about/" target="_blank">Shelley</a> for second shooting! </div>
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-59850642266028755782012-12-16T10:20:00.000-06:002012-12-16T10:20:49.467-06:00Portraits of a Singer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I had a blast at this glorious photoshoot with Molly <a href="http://mollymustonen.com/" target="_blank">(MollyMustonen.com.)</a> We drew inspiration from characters in operas that inspire her, resulting in a shoot expressing Molly's incredible range and connection with her art. A big thanks to <a href="http://makeupbywendy.com/" target="_blank">Makeup by Wendy</a> for the hair and makeup. </div>
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Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-81524351936966452222012-10-20T21:05:00.003-05:002012-10-20T21:11:57.940-05:00Ilha Grande, Brazil<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">All of the Patagonia blogs are up! If you missed any of the photos or stories, you can find them all at these links:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2012/09/journey-to-end-of-world-ushuaia-part-1.html" target="_blank">Ushuaia Part 1</a> <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2012/09/journey-to-end-of-world-ushuaia-part-2.html" target="_blank">and Part 2</a></span></div>
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<a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2012/10/buenos-aires.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Buenos Aires</span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">After weeks of ice, snow and glaciers, I was ready to return to the tropics. When I arrived in Rio de Janeiro to attend my cousin's wedding, I had a few extra days to escape to Ilha Grande, a tropical island off the coast of Rio. I was glad my mom came with me; she needed a break from the big city as well. Our little hostel faced a courtyard with a tiny restaurant that served delicious, home cooked meals surrounded by hummingbird feeders. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I wasn't familiar with the island, so on my first day I took a boat tour that covered many of the region's best beaches. A week of violent rainstorms left the island's crystal waters looking more cloudy than usual, so I didn't do much work underwater. The spring weather was chilly, perfect for hiking but painful for swimming. Even so, the snorkeling beaches were crowded with people. It was a little frustrating, but undeniably beautiful. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Ilha Grande is covered in all kinds of great trails that lead to a variety of hidden beaches. Determined to escape the crowds, I googled the most remote beach I could find that was within walking distance and decided on Caxadaço as my second day's destination. I knew the trail would be long, about 22 kilometers total, but after going 30 kilometers in El Chalten I felt confident that it would be fine. My mom felt good about it too, so we set out together into the forest. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Instead of using the map to get to the start of the trail, we asked locals how to get there and they directed us to a shortcut. The shortcut was an extremely rough footpath that went straight up the mountain through the jungle. I was thankful for the cool weather and couldn't imagine what it would be like to do the trail in the blistering heat of summer. Monkeys howled in the distance and there were exotic birds everywhere. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I read the the island's trails are incredibly well marked...I beg to differ. When we arrived at the end of the first shortcut, I found a sign marking its' entrance. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">At the top of this first ridge there was a beautiful view of Abraão, the biggest city on the island. The rough trail opened up onto a large dirt road where I was surprised to see a car pass. There are no cars allowed on the island, but apparently there are exceptions to the rule.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">At this point we discovered that my mom forgot to pack water. Thankfully, we passed a local on the trail to told us that the water on the island was safe to drink. It took over three hours to hike from the city to the sign indicating the trail to Caxadaço. </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The sign had an enormous chunk ripped out of it and other travelers had scribbled notes on the sign indicating time estimates. An hour and 40 minutes to get to the beach, sounds good. I looked at the trail ahead....It didn't look good. We decided to walk just a couple of minutes to see if it improved. It didn't. The little foot path looked fun to me, but we determined it was too risky and turned around. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Our new friends were great, making conversation and helping the time pass more quickly. We went deeper and deeper into the woods and the trail became much less defined. We started noticing strips of blue tape and ribbon attached to trees every 40-80 feet. The trail was covered in dead trees and there were many points where we had to climb over, under or around giant limbs on the trail. We were out of breath, sweaty, and wondering when would we ever get to the beach. The guys quickly became our personal heroes, carrying my mom's backpack and sharing their water with us.<br /><br />The trail got worse and worse. It wasn't so much the terrain as much as it was the lack of trail. All we had as a guide were our faithful blue ribbons. Sometimes one of us would walk ahead and look around for the next ribbon, and shout back to the group when we found it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">We could hear the ocean; it was so tempting. All I wanted to do was dive in and cool off, but it still seemed so far away. We had been walking together for 2 hours when we hit a marker that said "30 minutes." </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The trail wound around, up, down, left, right. I was so relieved to finally see the ocean. The four of us stood on the beach and took a breath. We were the only people in the entire world to see </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Caxadaço beach that day. How special. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">It had taken us almost 5 hours to get there and we had a long walk home ahead of us. Mom and I left the guys on the beach because we were tired and needed to go slowly. We said our goodbyes but were confident they would meet us on the trail again since they move much faster than we do. They gave us an empty water bottle so we could fill it once we hit fresh water. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br />It was tough going, but we recognized landmarks and there were a number of blue ribbons. After we passed a huge patch of thick bamboo, the going got tricky. The trail sort of ended, and there were no blue markers. To the left looked good to me. After walking 2-3 minutes that way, the trail REALLY ended. We turned around and went back. We stood there a bit, then decided to go to the right. We walked a couple of minutes and saw a white ribbon. I didn't remember any white ribbons on our way there, but we kept going. My confidence wavered until we finally saw a blue ribbon. Thank goodness. There wasn't really a trail...but there was a marker.<br /><br />I looked ahead. The forest was playing tricks on us. Everywhere I looked I could see a "trail," but for all I knew, these trails could have been made by monkeys. Mom saw a tree she recognized. I didn't remember it, but we kept moving. Soon we discovered that we were completely surrounded by so many enormous ants that we could no longer see the ground. We ran, kicking and smacking our legs, not even caring where we were. We got out of the ants and cleaned them off. It had been way too long since we last saw a blue marker. I got a sinking feeling in my stomach. I wasn't confident, there were no markers to lead the way and if we kept going I wouldn't even be able to make it back to the beach to try a new path.<br /><br />Mom shouted that we needed to go "TOWARDS THE LIGHT." I tried to explain to her that "the light" was "the sky" and wouldn't help us. Monkeys were howling at us, sounding much closer than before. I refused to take one more step without some sort of trail or marker. We were miles away from the main road in a dense jungle and the sun was setting. Images of us sleeping alone in the jungle flashed in my mind and my stomach turned. I told Mom we should go back to the last blue marker while we still had a chance to find our way back. My plan was to go all the way back to the beach and find the guys. We originally set off on our own to move calmly and not burden them any more, but I refused to be lost in the forest and if buying the guys a big dinner in exchange for helping us through the forest meant not spending the night getting eaten by monkeys, that was fine with me. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br />We turned around and I looked into the forest. A knot formed in my throat as I realized that I might have made that decision a step too late. We wandered in the direction we came. Mom was panicking, so I knew I couldn't panic too. We had been wandering lost for way too long at this point, and we were really worried the guys had left the beach already and were passing us on the trail. We whistled and screamed, hoping they would hear is. Some of the birds were imitating us, which would have been cute if we weren't so scared.<br /><br />I finally made it back to the rock I recognized and could see the tree Mom recognized in the distance. At each recognizable landmark I would run ahead of Mom 20-30 feet to check out the woods, looking for a new landmark I recognized. I called to Mom once I found one. We continued this way, always within earshot of each other</span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> and finally made progress. We found the vicious ant colony and ran for a bit. After an agonizing hour of walking, I finally found a blue marker and eventually the bamboo. I definitely knew the trail from there, so I took off my backpack and told mom to wait for me. "What if the guys aren't there?" "Then we sleep on the beach, Mom."</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br />I ran down the mountain with our empty water bottle. We needed water and a stream that fed into the ocean was the only fresh water for about 2 miles. I ran the rest of the way, praying with every bone in my body that the guys were still there.<br /><br />I burst onto the beach.</span><a href="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/IlhaGrande_22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/IlhaGrande_22.jpg" /></span></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The guys were fast asleep. After the past hour of hell, I actually felt bad waking them up. "Guys?" They sat up sleepily, confused. I stood there soaked in sweat, clutching my water bottle. I didn't even know where to start. "We tried, we really tried, but we got so lost. I couldn't find the trail, we were so scared. I will buy you dinner and a new car if you help us back to the big road. I don't want to ruin your day, but I really don't want to die in the rainforest."<br /><br />They were still a little lost, "Where is your mom." "She's at the top of the big hill, she's waiting because I wanted to go faster to find you guys! I'm sorry, yall can keep relaxing, we can wait, we just don't want to go alone." They insisted that they were going to head back anyway and started packing. I told them to relax and they asked me to wait for them with my mom at the top of the hill.<br />
<br />I gave Mom some water and sat for a while, catching my breath. It was getting late; how in the world could we make it back to Abraão before dark? We were exhausted, stressed, and Mom was still freaking out. When we met up with the guys Mom started sobbing, thanking them over and over. They offered Mom a cookie and even after all of the terror, the sight of my sweating, sobbing mother eating an oreo was really cute.<br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br />We got to the point in the trail that caused all of this mess. The guys looked around calmly, told us to wait, and darted in opposite directions into the forest. Every once in a while they called to each other in quick Spanish, discussing the success of their routes. I worried a little bit, but if they couldn't find the way then at least it would be four of us sleeping on the beach instead of two. We regrouped. Mom asked what they do when they get lost and they looked at each other, shrugged, and said "This."<br /><br />They both had such calm, confident demeanors when it came to the jungle. </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Apparently this trail was nothing compared to the mountain they climbed in Tanzania. They decided on a route and trudged forwards.</span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> The further we went, the more blue markers we saw. I was so relieved and giddy to finally be on the trail again. T</span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">he time passed really quickly. I could hear one of the guys talking to mom, asking her questions and helping her calm down. I was so incredibly grateful for the both of them. I could tell my mom to calm down and breathe for days without success. Hearing it in a British accent from a muscly trekker works much better for her. The guys shared the weight of Mom's heavy backpack and we tried to distract her from the trauma of getting lost. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br />After 2 hours at a steady pace, we made it back to the main road. I've never been so relieved to see dirt. We weren't 'out of the woods' yet though. Earlier in the day it had taken me and my mom over 3 hours down hill to get to this point. I really wanted to give these guys a good meal, but if we kept walking with them at their speed it will just about kill Mom. They moved so fast and we were all trying to beat the sun. Our heroes insisted on staying with us and we charged up the road.<br /><br />Mom was shaking and hurting, but she was determined not to be in the dark. She hurt her shin and was bleeding, but wouldn't let me patch her up. We arrived at the mouth of a hidden shortcut and the guys said that we could cut 3/4 off the length of the walk if we took it. It was extremely steep the entire way, mom's legs were giving up on her and the guys followed behind her, calmly coaching her to take deep breaths. Mom sobbed for most of the 40 minute shortcut. Even after we finished the insane trip up the mountain, we still had to go back to Abraão. It was pitch black outside and we still had an hour and a half of walking left to reach our hotel.<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /><br />Then we heard the most magical sound of all, an engine. That truck I saw at the beginning of the day was coming up the road, and Mom turned with a look of fierce determination. The truck looked like it was going to pass us, but Mom was waving like crazy and it slowed to a stop. She ran to the open window shouting in English, forgetting she was in Brazil. When the driver couldn't understand her, she switched to broken Spanish, which didn't work either. Finally, we were able to get some Portuguese out of her (Portuguese is her native language). We all piled in and the driver started down the road. We told him our story and laughed and cried all the way down the mountain. We took the guys out for dinner and thanked them over and over. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The next day was our last day on the island and we didn't want to spend it traumatized in bed. Instead, we took an hour and a half long trail to a waterfall where I had the opportunity to shoot some self portraits. We arrived just as everyone left the waterfall to go get lunch, so there wasn't a soul in sight. I braved the freezing water for portraits.</span><br />
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Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-2113459695722594142012-10-16T16:14:00.000-05:002012-10-16T16:14:57.775-05:00Buenos Aires<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After weeks experiencing the remote corners of Patagonia, I stopped for a couple of days in Buenos Aires, Argentina. In <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2012/09/journey-to-end-of-world-ushuaia-part-1.html" target="_blank">Ushuaia</a>, <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2012/09/journey-to-end-of-world-puerto-natales.html" target="_blank">Puerto Natales</a>, <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2012/10/journey-to-end-of-world-perito-moreno.html" target="_blank">El Calafate</a>, and <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2012/10/journey-to-end-of-world-fitz-roy.html" target="_blank">El Chaltén</a>, I relished my time spent alone with the silence of the wilderness, so suddenly transitioning to the second largest city in South America was jarring, to say the least. </div>
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Overwhelmed by the size of the city and the number of people rushing around me, I decided to focus in on the colorful details of the city. On my first day in Buenos Aires, I visited the La Boca neighborhood which is particularly famous for its vibrant architecture. I have no idea why, but I was especially drawn to doors.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span">My fascination with details, especially door handles, continued during my visit to Evita Perón's grave. I walked quietly through La Recoleta Cemetery, unable to shake the goosebumps from my body. I looked up, surrounded by enormous crypts whose coffins were so close I could reach out and touch them.<br />
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-81608737532133368572012-10-12T15:31:00.002-05:002012-10-12T15:31:52.727-05:00Journey to the End of the World - Fitz Roy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">El Chalt</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">é</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">n, Argentina</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Traveling on the shoulder of the season was a great way to save money and avoid crowds, but what was most striking about traveling </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">in Patagonia</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">at the end of winter were the cold winter landscapes. Dead trees brought a sense of sadness to forests, while hints of spring popped up in the most unexpected places. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">After traveling from the <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2012/09/journey-to-end-of-world-ushuaia-part-1.html" target="_blank">Argentina</a> to <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2012/09/journey-to-end-of-world-puerto-natales.html" target="_blank">Chile</a> and then back to <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com/2012/10/journey-to-end-of-world-perito-moreno.html" target="_blank">Argentina</a>, I reached what I considered to be the highlight of my travels in Patagonia. El Chalt</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">é</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">n, Argentina, is a tiny mountain village nestled at the base of the Cerro Fitz Roy mountains. With fewer than 1000 residents, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">El Chalt</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">é</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">n depends completely on the trekkers and tourists who come to explore and see Fitz Roy. Founded in 1985, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">El Chalt</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">é</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">n felt brand new and totally rural at the same time. Somehow, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I wasn't surprised to find a cat hanging out in the dairy section of one of the village's two miniature grocery stores. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><a href="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/ElChalten_FitzRoy_18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><img border="0" src="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/ElChalten_FitzRoy_18.jpg" style="cursor: move;" /></span></a></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Weeks of paid excursions, buses, and boats left me starving for independence. I was aching to hike on my own schedule and photograph a sunrise and a sunset. Thankfully, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">El Chalt</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">é</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">n was the perfect place for that. All of the hiking trails in Los Glaciares National Park were free and about a 20 minute walk from my little cabin. I arrived in </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">El Chalt</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">é</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">n by bus around midday, leaving about 5-6 hours for hiking that day.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">One of the easier hikes listed on my map was the hike to Chorillo del Salto waterfall. My heavy camera backpack made every hike a little harder than it should be, but it was totally worth it. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">After spending some time at the base of the waterfall, I noticed the silhouette of a hiker at the waterfall's mouth. It looked impossibly high, dangerous, and totally fun. The trail to the top of the waterfall was not official, nor was it marked, but that couldn't stop me. I spent most of the climb on all fours, leaning my weight into the mountain to keep from toppling backwards. I made it to the top, and the height made my stomach turn. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">It was difficult to see over the rounded edge of the cliff, so I got down on my stomach and scooted to the edge. </span><br />
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<a href="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/ElChalten_FitzRoy_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><img border="0" src="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/ElChalten_FitzRoy_05.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"><b>Mirador de los Cóndores</b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The natives originally named elusive Fitz Roy the "smoking mountain," thanks to the clouds that perpetually hover around its peak. I read dozens of accounts from tourists traveling across the world to see this incredible mountain, only to spend days battling rain and thick cloud cover. Many had to leave </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">El Chalt</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">é</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">n hoping the see the mountain, just once, from the plane. As with the rest of the trip, I prepared for the worst. After weeks of unbelievably good weather, I was sure that my luck would run out in </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">El Chalt</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">é</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">n. Thankfully I was wrong, so I hurried back to town to take the trail to the Mirador de los C</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">ó</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">ndores to see my first Patagonian sunset. Even on this crystal clear evening, the mountain hid behind puffy clouds. The first day's hike totaled at 12 kilometers and ended with a quiet sunset.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Determined to catch a sunrise, I set my alarm for 5am and went to sleep early. My goal was to hike to Laguna Capri, a "two hour hike uphill" according to my map. Taking only the most important camera gear and snacks, I hit the trails in pitch darkness around 6am. My flashlight was pitiful, but managed to keep me on the dusty trail up the mountain. With no moon and dim starlight, it was impossible to see more than 2-3 feet ahead of me. The night air was freezing cold, but layers of clothing and the effort of the hike kept me warm. I was surrounded by shadows of dead trees and total silence, there weren't even any bugs. After about an hour of hiking in the dead of night, t</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">he sky grew pink, birds started chirping, and I could sort of see the trail without my flashlight. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Relieved, I put my flashlight away and picked up the pace. The sun was far from peeking above the horizon, but I had a feeling that this hike was going to be much longer than I expected. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The water in the park is safe to drink, there are even signs warning against washing dishes or yourself in the rivers. The park officials take great care to make sure the water stays clean and safe, so for the first time in my life I knelt at the edge of fast moving stream and took a sip. The icy water tasted so fresh and perfect, it was like being in a fairytale. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I caught a glimpse of the tip of Fitz Roy through the trees, it was already pink! I looked at my map and identified the stream I just passed and discovered I was only halfway to my destination. I charged up the mountain. After 3 hours of hiking up 1200 feet in elevation, I finally made it to the first lookout point, soaked in sweat. My body was warm, so I didn't realize how cold it was until I tried to use my lip balm and discovered it was frozen solid. The fierce orange changed to an icy stone color as I hiked from the lookout point to the lagoon. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The absolutely perfect sky was free of clouds and the air started to get warmer. I removed a couple of layers and looked at a map. After 3 and a half hours of hiking it was only 9:30am. The trails were completely empty and I had an entire day ahead of me. I calculated that I could hike until about 2pm before I would need to turn around and hike back to town and arrive before dark. Over the next 3 hours I pushed forward on the trails surrounded by haunting silver trees. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I had been hiking for 5 hours without seeing a soul, so when a young couple came hiking up the path we struck up conversation. They started their hike about 3 hours after I did and they had already caught up to me. Talking helped distract me from my tired feet and their pace was so much faster than mine that they helped me cover much more ground without even realizing it. Time sped by and I realized we were at the end of the safe, relatively flat trail.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">From there was a path marked with exclamation points, danger signs, and strong recommendations to not continue. My new friends looked up at the trail to Laguna de los Tres and said it was no big deal; they were just going to go to the top and come back. The map indicated the trail would take them from 1200 in elevation to 2500 feet. They went ahead and I plodded along at my own pace. I only had an hour left before I absolutely had to turn back and I had no idea how far I would make it. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">There were more warning signs: 'for experienced trekkers only' 'very dangerous when windy or rainy.' I was not an experienced trekker, but it wasn't windy or rainy either. After only 10 minutes, I hid my camera backpack and tripod in the woods and continued with just my camera, a banana and a water bottle. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />Free of the extra weight, I felt refreshed...for about 10 minutes. The trail had about a 45 degree incline and was not fun. The rocks were huge and uneven and no matter how far I climbed, the top didn't seem to get any closer. I took a couple of breaks, cursing exhaustion and the height of the mountain. I played in the snow for a bit and then came to a place in the trail that actually showed the rest of the path. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Eventually my pleasant 45 degree incline would be replaced by a 60+ degree incline for the rest of the snow covered trail. There was no sign of my friends, apparently they had already passed over the top of the mountain like super heroes. The top of the mountain stood there, teasing me. It looked like a reasonable height, but that incline...I only had half an hour left to get to the top before I had to turn back.<br /><br />I spent several minutes trying to convince myself to give up and turn around. Finally, I decided to sprint up the mountain for half an hour and give up if I hadn't gotten to the top by then. I had a renewed sense of power, drive, energy. It</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> was steep and rocky, but not too bad. Things got complicated when I got to t</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">he first huge patch of snow. There were no rocky places to get stable footing, so I followed the footprints from previous trekkers. I was ok until I noticed an enormous hole where a trekker'</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">s foot fell 3 feet deep into the snow. I proceeded carefully. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />The path got much steeper, I used both hands and feet to hold onto rocks and scramble up the mountain. Patches of thick snow alternated with insanely steep slopes made of unstable rocks and muddy silt. I was crawling, grabbing onto the snow with my bare hands. I was so pumped with fear and determination that I couldn't even feel the sting of the ice. The top of the ridge looked so close, I took photos every couple of minutes to check the time on my camera. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">To my dismay, it was an illusion. The 'top of the ridge' was just an overhang that hid the real top. I stood there, exhausted. I wanted that panoramic photo and it was so close! It wasn't as close as I had thought, but I could do this. I checked the time...15 minutes. I was encouraged with how far I got in 15 minutes and calculated that I could probably reach the top within my time limit and kept climbing.<br /><br />The path started getting really scary. By "path" I mean "row of yellow sticks poking out of abnormally high piles of snow and sharp rocks." I repeated mantras aloud: "You can do this" turned into "you are insane" to "SO close!" I was out of breath, completely and utterly terrified, and totally determined to get to the top. My water bottle and banana fell out of my sweater pocket over and over. Eventually, I lost the banana completely and when my water bottle fell for a 7th time, I left it behind.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I'm not even sure how to describe the last 5-10 minutes of the climb. I couldn't look down without getting sick from the height, and I couldn't look up without getting aggravated at the top of the mountain. I stared ahead of me at each rock and patch of snow I grabbed. It was so steep that I had to kick the wall of snow to make a place for me to put my weight before taking another step. Rocks slipped out from under me and holes in the snow made me terrified to continue trying my luck. All I wanted was to get to the top and go home.<br /><br />I made it. Finally I could see Fitz Roy, closer than I ever hoped it could be. The rush of finally arriving was washed away by the realization that the path still wasn't over. Ahead of me was a valley that, to my exhausted and terrified eyes, looked miles wide. On the edge of the next ridge I saw two tiny dots, my new friends.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I was out of time and couldn't go one more step. I turned back towards the path and immediately burst into tears. All I wanted was to get down from there. I sat on a pile of snow and slid my way down most of the mountain. It wasn't a perfect solution, but I was able to collect my water bottle and banana on the way down. My hands were red and numb.<br /><br />I finally stopped sobbing and collected myself. My jeans were soaked, but I was too pumped with adrenaline to care. I reached the place in the trail where I left my dry ski pants and changed. After a couple of minutes I saw my friends coming down the mountain. They called out, thanking me for my "butt trails." They had apparently used them as guides for sliding down the mountain in their waterproof trousers. I asked them how they got so far and they replied "Oh, it was only five minutes from the first ridge." When I asked them how the trip up the mountain was they replied "nice, fun."<br /><br />We walked together down the mountain. It was so much faster, especially with them chatting. I picked up my backpack and tripod on the way down, and we hiked together all the way back to the first lake where I took pictures in the morning. On the way back, some hikers asked if the trail was really as bad as the park rangers said, my friends answered "Oh no it's really fine! Just be careful, there is snow and sometimes you have to go off the path. It's very beautiful."</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Apparently, running up a dangerous trail alone, with no trekking experience and with a strict time limit distorts the experience....a lot. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The entire hike totaled at about 30 kilometers, the longest hike I've ever done in one day. I would do it again in a heartbeat. </span></div>
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Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-27590614340360245952012-10-05T22:08:00.000-05:002012-10-05T22:20:29.601-05:00Journey to the End of the World- Perito Moreno Glacier<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I saw several glaciers in <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/journey-to-end-of-world-puerto-natales.html" target="_blank">Puerto Natales, Chile</a>, but nothing compared to the grandeur of Perito Moreno Glacier near El Calafate, Argentina. I decided not to take the walking tour on the glacier, and instead used my time hiking the 4km of trails near the glacier and taking a short boat ride. </div>
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At the beginning of the day, the bus stopped at the glacier for only 15 minutes (our boat tour was leaving soon.) It was early in the morning and there were no crowds, so I hurried down the trails to get an overview of the glacier alone. My heart skipped a beat when I came to the first lookout point. It was completely empty and silent except for the occasional thunder of ice falling into the ocean. I tried to take a photo of the glacier, but it was so wide it wouldn't fit on camera. Panoramic stitching became my best friend. </div>
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The boat tour took me closer to the glacier which was exciting, but very stressful. So many tourists stuffed themselves against the railing of the boat that I almost got pushed overboard. Thankfully, it got so cold and windy that almost everyone went inside, so I felt more comfortable taking photos.<br />
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Even on the boat, it was hard to grasp how incredibly huge the glacier is. The walking tour occurs on the shortest part of the glacier and hints at the size (3 miles wide with an average height of 240 feet.)<br />
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After seeing the walking tour, I realized that the blocks of ice crashing into the ocean were about the size of a house...incredible!<br />
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Near the end of the day, the sun started dancing through the clouds, spilling light onto the glacier in gorgeous ways. All of the travelers with organized tours left in the mid afternoon, leaving me with 2 hours of peace and quiet with the glacier. Even with several hours, I didn't have time to finish the 4km of trails.<br />
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<br />Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3648054246522427809.post-12476897375080163602012-09-28T08:15:00.000-05:002012-09-28T13:44:33.732-05:00Journey to the End of the World- Puerto Natales<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Chilean and Argentinian Patagonia feature very different kinds of landscapes, so I braved the 18 hour drive from Ushuaia, Argentina to Puerto Natales, Chile. Thankfully it wasn't nearly as eventful as my<a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com.ar/2011/02/tales-of-36-hour-bus-ride.html" target="_blank"> Peruvian Bus Trip</a> last year.</span><br />
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Leaving Ushuaia, the bus weaved through the mountains, providing gorgeous scenery. Even the drivers were impressed enough by the sunrise to pull over and let us take pictures.</span><br />
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I heard all kinds of frightening stories crossing the Strait of Magellan. The weather in the entire region is famous for being unpredictable. One photographer almost got washed off of his boat by an enormous wave. As it turned out, the weather was unbelievably sunny and clear, finally some blue skies!</span><br />
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Torres del Paine </span></b></span><br />
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The first thing that struck me about Chile was that I absolutely could not understand Chilean Spanish. Communicating was difficult, but somehow I got by. The biggest attraction in Puerto Natales is Torres del Paine National Park, which is a bit of a drive outside of the city. My options for experiencing the park were limited because I was visiting for only a couple of days during the low season. I ended up taking a bus tour that gave a good overview of the park. The timing of the buses meant missing the sunrise, but the cloudy weather created beautiful soft light for photos. Torres del Paine is notorious for hiding behind clouds, so I was lucky to see them at all!</span><br />
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A fire devastated parts of the park earlier this year, leaving acres of dead trees. </span><br />
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<a href="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_PuertoNatales_chile09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_PuertoNatales_chile09.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">We stopped at a trail and were given an hour. This part of the park hadn't been burned, so all of the tress were large and covered in soft moss. The trails eventually led the most expansive lake beach I've ever seen. It reminded me so much of <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com.ar/2010/11/vik-iceland.html" target="_blank">Iceland</a>. Armed with a dozen layers of clothing, I hiked across the beach. This view shows only a tiny portion of the beach. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Hurrying up a rocky trail with no railings on the side of a cliff in zero degree weather and winds gusting to about 40 miles an hour was a struggle, to say the least....</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />My ears were stinging, my nose was running, my head hurt, my eyes were dry, and my throat was burning. The beach looked a million miles wide and the wind blew so hard that it was difficult to stay upright, let alone walk straight. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">After what felt like hours, I finally got back to the bus. The clouds opened up just enough to let some sunlight through, wrapping up my day wish insanely gorgeous light. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>The Fjords</b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I had a delightful time on the boat tour I took in <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com.ar/2012/09/journey-to-end-of-world-ushuaia-part-1.html" target="_blank">Ushuaia</a>, so I decided to take my chances on a much longer tour of the Channel of Last Hope. With limited time and options, it seemed like my best bet. I felt packed like a sardine in the boat, but thankfully the ride became more comfortable as tourists moved outside to the decks and to the little cabin upstairs. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The tour's route turned out to be almost identical to the boat tour I took in <a href="http://clairemcadamsphotography.blogspot.com.ar/2012/09/journey-to-end-of-world-ushuaia-part-1.html" target="_blank">Ushuaia</a>, it was just much longer. The Ilha dos Pássaros didn't have nearly as many birds, but the landscape and sunlight made up for it. </span></div>
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<a href="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_puertonatales_chile15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_puertonatales_chile15.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">When the boat stopped at a cliff face I had to ninja-kick my way through hoards of tourists crowded at the railings to be able to see the few sea lions tucked away in little caves. In spite of the fact that tourists were yelling, elbowing, and stepping on me, I was so moved by how tiny and adorable the babies were. If I could taken one home with me, I would. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Our next stops were Balmaceda Glacier and Serrano Glacier. It was sad to see how much Balmaceda Glacier has melted, but it was still beautiful. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><a href="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_puertonatales_chile17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_puertonatales_chile17.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><a href="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_puertonatales_chile18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Balmaceda Glacier" border="0" src="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_puertonatales_chile18.jpg" title="" /></a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">At Serrano Glacier we were allowed off of the boat to go on a hike. I hiked as fast as physically possible to lose the enormous group of tourists at my heels. I arrived at all of the lookout points before they got crowded, and turned around early enough to leisurely return to the boat alone. I finally had some moments of peace to appreciate the quiet and the colors and textures of the land. I even hopped to the middle of a little river for some nice views of the glacier. </span></div>
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<a href="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_puertonatales_chile19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_puertonatales_chile19.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><a href="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_puertonatales_chile20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Serrano Glacier" border="0" src="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_puertonatales_chile20.jpg" title="" /></a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">At the end of the trip we had a beautiful bar-b-q was fresh off the fire and there was salad and soup and wine, glorious. The island was cute, I chased around a couple of sheep before I gave up and spent some time with a sassy Chilean cat. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><a href="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_puertonatales_chile22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Serrano Glacier" border="0" src="http://mcadams.info/clairemcadamsphotography/blog/blog_travel_puertonatales_chile22.jpg" title="" /></a></span></div>
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Claire McAdamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13720521300771126300noreply@blogger.com0